BLOG: Our daily adventures,
Week 14: The Coastline around Palmeirinha to Praia da Foz
April 9th to April 15th
- Day 92: April 9th: The Coastline around Palmeirinha to Somewhere on a cliff past Praia Amoreira - 13 km.
13 km done for a total of 1130 + 13 km = 1143 km
- Day 93: April 10th: Somewhere on a cliff past Praia Amoreira to Somewhere just before Praia de Odeceixe - 20 km.
A little dance to celebrate Casey's most beloved colour: pink!
No clue on what they are planning to grow on grey sand. It must be hard to be a farmer around here.
A plantation of avocados, our favorite spreading! Not ripe yet unfortunately...
It's the first time we see a vineyard in the land of Porto wine..this one is very young and growing on sandy soil though: problably just enough grapes for 5 bottles.
20 km done for a total of 1143 + 20 km = 1163 km
- Day 94: April 11th: Somewhere just before Praia de Odeceixe to Zambujeira do Mar - 22 km.
Today it is supposed to rain the whole day (90% chance) according to the weather forecast so we start, well prepared, with our backpacks thoroughly covered and our waterproof jackets on.
In the greyish morning, we quickly stop to admire what seems to be the "summer houses" of a few couples of Storks right on top of the rocks...
Lucky us, the clouds vanished as fast as they came...time for a little break in the sun.
First shower of the day: it was full sun when we arrived at this little place and ordered ourselves a cafe con leche. Then all of a sudden, out of nowhere, it switched to very strong, heavy, wind-intensified rain and we had to take shelter, shivering, under the doorsteps leading to the rooftop patio where we were enjoying our coffees 1 minute earlier.
Then again, lucky us, the sun came back as fast as he was gone just a quick 20 minutes, two more coffees and a chocolate cake later.
Then again, lucky us, the sun came back as fast as he was gone just a quick 20 minutes, two more coffees and a chocolate cake later.
Casey and I just managed to cross the river on time before the high tide..the water went up to our waist right beneath our backpacks..very lucky!
We've often encountered, on the parking lots of the many beaches we've walked on, communities of surfers waiting for the perfect waves in their minivans/campers: Germans, French and Dutch...some have a pretty nice sense of humour: Plus on est de fous...
This french quote was neighbouring a drawing of "Kenny" (Southpark) with underneath it "I will survive".
etc...
This french quote was neighbouring a drawing of "Kenny" (Southpark) with underneath it "I will survive".
etc...
Yes I know, this is a very poor attempt to build ourselves a shelter with my poncho...
Anyway the 3rd short rain shower today is almost over, so we decide to brave the elements and face our "fear of wetting our socks"
/better known for us now as our "fear of the sausage" (mauvais franglais intentionnel et de mon cru signifiant: "peur de la saucée").
Anyway the 3rd short rain shower today is almost over, so we decide to brave the elements and face our "fear of wetting our socks"
/better known for us now as our "fear of the sausage" (mauvais franglais intentionnel et de mon cru signifiant: "peur de la saucée").
Under the canopy, pas de pluie...but still in case, hop voila!
Who've said ridiculous?! One poncho later and, here I am, transmuted from Obelix to triangularly-hunched Quasimodo,
from a turtle shell to a full house, from a Carrot to a double deck eggplant, ...
Go have fun and find your own...
from a turtle shell to a full house, from a Carrot to a double deck eggplant, ...
Go have fun and find your own...
Always one goofing around...the perfect pair of clowns!
This land owner has created his/her own zoo. We've seen: Alpagas, Sheep, Ostriches, Water Buffalos ,Cows, Goats and Zebras...what's next?
His/her property covers 3 soccer stadiums to say the least. Our trail is following the outskirts of its electrical fence on one side and the overgrown leaves of bamboo-like trees on the other side. This leaves us with the enjoyable choice between electrocution and continuous-ducking-under-branches. Fun times ahead!
His/her property covers 3 soccer stadiums to say the least. Our trail is following the outskirts of its electrical fence on one side and the overgrown leaves of bamboo-like trees on the other side. This leaves us with the enjoyable choice between electrocution and continuous-ducking-under-branches. Fun times ahead!
Tunnel 1
Tunnel 2
Tunnel 3
Tunnel 4
Tunnel 5... etc.
We unanimously baptised today: "the tunnels day"...The trail kept leading us through carved paths under bushes and trees with very low ceilings and often muddy ("rivers" should be the more exact term invented just for this) ground/river beds. To avoid damaging my guitalele and Casey's solar panel, we have to walk quasi parallel to the ground, hunched over like a couple of octogenarians.
I stand there happy to be, for a change, stepping over a tree as opposed to crawling underneath it.
I stand there happy to be, for a change, stepping over a tree as opposed to crawling underneath it.
Between the tunnels though, the reward: openings to an ever-changing coastline: surreal, majestic, grandiose........
This small beach bar/surf school is closed in the low season but we love its decorations and little humorous quotes.
Someone has written my grandmother's name on the sand...I'm due for a phone call with Alice in Alsace...Not going through a tunnel this time: so Happy to hear her voice today!
"C'est le pied" comme on dit par chez nous.
The curtain of rain in the distance is heading towards us...we are still half an hour away from the next village.
Casey's fighting his fear of heights while walking, in the fading light, along a very steep, narrow, tricky and slippery trail along the very high cliffs...dizzy, the abyss, just below!
Zambujeira do Mar's small Chapel is facing the future storm about to hit the coast.
Casey's favorite facial expression: the wink. It's his birthday month and we, at last, succeeded in covering the amount of km we were aiming for at the beginning of our adventures: 22km. We are celebrating Casey's arrival on planet Earth and our achievement with an unexpected double order of octopus (now we know that the untranslated "pulvo" on the menu ment octopus as translated one line later for the dish I've ordered) and half a pitcher of the house wine. Happy Casey, we made it right on time again to avoid the upcoming intense rain.
It 's raining cats and dogs in Zambujeira do Mar, we are taking shelter underneath the roof of a building. The sea is roaring nearby, waves are crashing, relentless, on the rocks. We are contemplating the idea of sleeping under the porch of the restaurant in renovation next door.
We ended up taking our chance when the rain calmed down in the nearest pine trees forest. We manage to set our camp, the rain started again right after we were done. Now safe , happy and dry under our little cocoon.
22 km done for a total of 1163 + 22 km = 1185 km
- Day 95: April 12th: Zambujeira do Mar to past Farol do Cabo Sardao - 17 km.
17 km done for a total of 1185 + 17 km = 1202km
- Day 96: April 13th: Somewhere past Farol do Cabo Sardao to Praia do Brejo Largo - 19 km.
19 km done for a total of 1202 + 19 km = 1221 km
- Day 97: April 14th: Praia do Brejo Largo to Praia da Angra da Cerva - 15 km.
Where the greener grass grows.
Still 117 km to Lisbon...hoping we can make it for Casey's birthday.
The kitesurfers are back here in Vila Nova de Milfontes.
On the other side, Vila Nova de Milfontes, charming little town you can access via a ferry ride across the bay.
Only 2 of Maria's 24 cats..she sells ferry tickets and feeds 24 mouths with it...
15 km done for a total of 1221 + 15 km = 1236 km
- Day 98: April 15th: Praia da Angra da Cerva to Praia da Foz - 22 km.
Sitting on Porto Covo's paved sidewalk, waiting for Casey who is grocery shopping.
Porto Covo is a charming fishermen's town: the housed are panted in different shades of blue.
For every drop of intolerance a bucket of poetry.
I love/live the irony in this fancy surfer's hostel..the ocean has been anything but mute since we've started walking the Rota Vincentina: a constant roar that is making Casey's slowly crazy..he compares it to a fighter aircraft's noise when it is about to break the speed of sound just before the sonic boom.
Our new tradition: dining with the sunset. Every day is a new treat for our eyes and our taste buds. The privilege of hiking along the west coast...
22 km done for a total of 1236+22 km = 1258 km