BLOG: Our daily adventures,
Week 25: Cascata de Fecha de Barjas to O Casal
June 25th to July 1st
- Day 169: June 25th: Cascata de Fecha de Barjas to Curral dos Portos - 15 km
Miradouro Cilhas
Cascata da Rajada...time for a jump in the icy cold water!
Casey the lightworker harnessing the power of the sun rays.
Perfect timing...a few minutes earlier this sudden flock of tourists (a full bus) would have found us swimming naked in the waterfalls...still we felt like they were looking at us as if we were monkeys in a zoo.
The group of day hikers luckily didn't go further and walked back to the parking lot from where they came.
Now we are ready for a steep climb on a very narrow path along the impressive rocks of the mountain above us...one false move and we could fall of the cliff.
Casey's fear of heights is triggered once more.
where is waldo?
After a week of overcast/rainy days, at last the clouds left us alone, right when we reached the summit! Lucky us!
After a week of overcast/rainy days, at last the clouds left us alone, right when we reached the summit! Lucky us!
Crystal clear water flowing from underneath an oversized rock...perfect, I was thirsty.
Still walking our talk...
We've made it to the top and found a hidden valley surrounded by rocky mountains.
A little Abendbrot in the soft sunset.
Casey is holding half of the remains of a snake's skin. We'd rather stay away from its path and explore a place further down to find a good camping spot.
And there it is: a little paradise next to a shelter with a breathtaking view of the mountains around us, along a small river and on soft grass.
15 km done for a total of 2239+15= 2254 km
- Day 170: June 26th: Sunday barbecue with the shepperds at Curral dos Portos.
A beautiful morning under a secular cork oak.
I am mending my shoes with a second layer of heart-shaped bandaids. Our pink duct tape has been a life savior since the beginning of our trip covering holes and repairing equipment.
A group of people arrived at the little shelter next to our camping spot. They were preparing a barbecue on the massive granit picnic table when we passed by. We were ready to rumble, all packed up and hiking sticks in hands, when they invited us to join them for the feast. We decided to extend our stay for one more night so we could enjoy the company and the great traditional food of our newfound friends.
One of them, Joao, speaks perfect french, and played the translator all day long.
He explained that villagers coming from the other side of the lake have reinstated an old tradition. Back in the days, they would load their herds of cows and goats on wooden boats, cross the lake and lead the animals up to the mountain top. Then villagers would take turn each day, coming up to this mountain's shelter to keep an eye on their animals and having a meal together. All the pots and pans and wood supplies are kept in a small shed which is always open for the use of people passing by and to perpetuate this shepherds tradition.
One of them, Joao, speaks perfect french, and played the translator all day long.
He explained that villagers coming from the other side of the lake have reinstated an old tradition. Back in the days, they would load their herds of cows and goats on wooden boats, cross the lake and lead the animals up to the mountain top. Then villagers would take turn each day, coming up to this mountain's shelter to keep an eye on their animals and having a meal together. All the pots and pans and wood supplies are kept in a small shed which is always open for the use of people passing by and to perpetuate this shepherds tradition.
Prato del dia: backed beans with cabbage and smoked ham covered in olive oil and apple vinegar...This diluted with plenty of white wine, red wine and beers digged out of a blue barrel kept cold thanks to the water of the spring just one meter away.
Chocolate cake and coffee..cherry on top!
Chocolate cake and coffee..cherry on top!
Only one woman in the group but she is doing all the work: she cooked, washed the dishes and left for an hour to keep an eye on the animals. Meanwhile the men drank joyfully.
As always, Casey's babysitting...trying to teach badminton to the kid of the family.
Our super generous friends left and gave us plenty of wood to warm our bones in the evening and enough food to fill our belly the next day.
- Day 171: June 27th: Curral dos Portos to the mountains above Geres - 18 km
A few km down the trail we found another great mountain shelter. This time built into the rock..again everything is ready for the passers by in case of a stormy weather...pots and pans, wood, fountain, pic nic table of pure granit.
No fear of lacking water in these mountains every km a new spring or an old fountain is there to quench our thirst. This one is quite original flowing out of a tree.
Cascata do Arado
A splendid view from the miradouro de Pedra Bela.
After a small break in the city of Geres (caldas de Gerez) to replenish our food supplies and to get ourselves a "cafe gourmet" (expresso with a scoop of ice cream), we walked up the streets to find the trail heading up the mountains towards Campo do Geres on the other side.
Couldn't resist the climb on top of this deserted podium.
Geres is nested in a narrow valley and is built right above a beautiful river. It is known for its luxurious thermal baths and pure water which also attracted the romans in the past.
As we climbed up the steep mountain, the light started to fade dangerously and still no sight of a flat area wide enough to pitch our tent.
At last, at the top of the "hill" with the sun residual lighting and one dying head lamp, we found the only tiny area of semi-grass that could host the 3*3 meters surface of our tent. After cleaning thoroughly the space and weeding out the abundant spiky bushes, there we are, with an amazing view of the lakes below us...on one of the most beautiful tent spot so far.
18 km done for a total of 2254+18= 2272 km
- Day 172: June 28th: The mountains above Geres to the ones above Campo de Geres - 18 km
Best morning coffee with a view.
Just about one km away from our sleeping spot, this providential water reservoir on top of the mountain becomes our morning bath.
Never seen a cow with horns this long!
Going down towards Campo de Geres, we had to be careful not to lose each other in a forest of fern.
The lake of the river Homem...a revival of the landscape we've experienced in Canada...noone else here but us!
Time for a dive !
And time to apply our new routine to survive under the hot sun: every time we find a source of water on our way, we are throwing our t-shirts and hats in there to keep the fresh water effect a little longer.
And time to apply our new routine to survive under the hot sun: every time we find a source of water on our way, we are throwing our t-shirts and hats in there to keep the fresh water effect a little longer.
We are following an ancient roman road..la via Geira.
We are climbing up on a shepherd's trail that seems not so well taken care of...we have to fight our way up through the bushes with the sole indications of a few piles of stones as landmarks...When we reach the top and its green pastures...my legs already looked like I had fought against a crazy cat and lost.
...what a reward it is for us the next morning when we wake up with 360 degrees of beauty all around.
18 km done for a total of 2272+18= 2290 km
- Day 173: June 29th: The mountains above Campo de Geres to Cascata de Homem - 18 km
After a few kilometers we reach our first plateau
...right there everything is set for visitors and shepherds to have a rest...wood stacked, fire place, beautiful green grass and a few trees planted there to provide the dry wood necessary for the fire.
The shepherds have built for themselves a perfect little resting seat with a flat stone around which grew the tree Casey's leaning on...and cherry on top a small spring is flowing one meter away...a little taste of paradise.
On the second plateau, cows have conquered the land.
Once again a shelter for the shepherds is ready in case of stormy weather.
Game of thrones...
We thought that we've experienced the worse yesterday while walking up the hills through spiky bushes and poorly taken care off trails...but no, today's hike down the mountain beats all we've seen so far...we had to fight,climb,jump, crawl, kneel our way through trees,rocks,trail turned into riverbeds...least to say we were relieved to reach the main path in one piece... @#€& shepherds, too lazy to clean up the path !!!
halleluyaaaaaa!
As we were about to go on a little expedition to the nearby river to refill our water bottles...this little visitor landed on my jacket and stayed there for the whole ride to the river and back...This peculiar fluorescent yellow butterfly has quite ergonomic wings...
18 km done for a total of 2290+18= 2308 km
- Day 174: June 30th: Cascata de Homem to Os Banios - 12 km
At the border between Portugal and Spain...
There, tagged on both side of a bench in Os Banios, in the middle of nowhere, we found the symbol of the galactic butterfly (my stage name as a musician). What were the odds??!!
We are celebrating our crossing back to Spain. Casey's happy to get some sea food...mussels to start with then entrecôte and cordon bleu, cafe and chocolate mousse..a feast to have me smile again after receiving some worrying news from home.
And to end the day, what's best than to soak in the village hot springs..our bodies are welcoming this warm water treat.
The rio caldo valley is a unique natural passage between the Xures and Santa Eufemia mountain ranges, originated from a breach in the geological fault that separates both. Here in Os Banios, this fissure in the granitic soil allowed to spring up a rich source of thermal waters, with mineral and medicinal properties, harnessed by the inhabitants of the area from prehistory to our days.
The romans for example referred to this hot springs as being the "aquis originis", literally waters of the origines. Une fontaine de jouvence?
The romans for example referred to this hot springs as being the "aquis originis", literally waters of the origines. Une fontaine de jouvence?
12 km done for a total of 2308+12= 2320 km
- Day 175: July 1st: Os Banios to O Casal - 16 km
Inside Lobios charming little medieval church.
As soon as we are back in Spain, the water shortage is visible. When crossing the bridge over the river Limia, we could clearly see where the initial level of the river used to be and how its bed is now reduced to.
We are less than 150km away from Santiago de Compostela, so we're starting to collect stamps more actively in our Credential...the little restaurants and cafes on our way are now more often ready to stamp it and have sometimes special pilgrims meals or treats to offer. Let the treasure hunt begins..findings the yellow arrows and the places to get our stamps: fun!
16 km done for a total of 2320+16= 2336 km