BLOG: Our daily adventures,
Week 6: Parque natural Los Toruños to El Palmar de Troya
February 12th-18th
- Day 36 & 37: February 12th & 13th: Parque natural Los Toruñoso.
New perspective...contemplating the ceiling, and an ankle that's also going through 50 shades of blue...
At the moment, however, it is exploring the potential of the yellow gradient: I've just applied a copious amount of Propolis mixed with Tiger balm, letting them work their magic.
My foot isn't too swollen though, and whenever I go back to the vertical plan, I can put my full weight on it...Good Omen!
At the moment, however, it is exploring the potential of the yellow gradient: I've just applied a copious amount of Propolis mixed with Tiger balm, letting them work their magic.
My foot isn't too swollen though, and whenever I go back to the vertical plan, I can put my full weight on it...Good Omen!
Our neighbours today, the beach is at a 100 metres from here but that's what they decide to do: playing games, hunched over their phones. They stay static by choice when all I hope for is to be able to move.
Casey is starting to be antsy/have ants in his pants, he'd like to move forward. Everyday, since we arrived here in the Park, he's been walking back and forth to El Puerto de Santa Maria to get us something to eat...The best thoughtful man I could hope for. At least he escapes sometimes to walk in the Park and along the beach...still the wanderlust force is strong with this one!
...with me too...
...with me too...
Our little pleasure first thing in the morning.
My man, cheering me up by spoiling me with good food and goofing around.
Tomorrow is both Valentine's day and verdict day! Hoping it will bring us some luck for a change. I'll go to the hospital to check if I can get back cautiously on the road or if I'll have to wait for Casey, leg up, in Sevilla.
Fingers crossed!
Tomorrow is both Valentine's day and verdict day! Hoping it will bring us some luck for a change. I'll go to the hospital to check if I can get back cautiously on the road or if I'll have to wait for Casey, leg up, in Sevilla.
Fingers crossed!
- Day 38: February 14th : Parque natural Los Toruñoso - El puerto de Santa Maria
We walk together on the beach toward El puerto de Santa Maria. The objective: reaching the nearest hospital in El puerto de Santa Maria where I will get my ankle checked. Seing me limping on the Sand, a park ranger super sympathetic, comes to us, offers to help and drives us to the hospital: luck is back.
The man is a hiking lover, he has done 3 times the Camino with his wife and wears a bracelet on his left wrist with the famous yellow seashell. While driving, he explains a few historical facts about El Puerto de Santa Maria.
The man is a hiking lover, he has done 3 times the Camino with his wife and wears a bracelet on his left wrist with the famous yellow seashell. While driving, he explains a few historical facts about El Puerto de Santa Maria.
After X-raying my foot, we are at least releived on one thing: my bones are intact.
However my ligaments might still be in a bad shape...
I'm being prescribed 7-8 days of RICE again (Rest, Ice, Compression, Elevation).
Couldn't get an RMI done to assess the state of my ligaments since it would take 15 days to get an appointment plus it should be prescribed by my doctor who is now on holliday until February 21st.
Better safe than sorry, so I am leaving by train to Sevilla where I will be waiting for Casey who will walk there in approximately 10 days. I hope then that my foot will be ready to hike at least a few km.
In the meantime I'll try to get an RMI done in Sevilla...
However my ligaments might still be in a bad shape...
I'm being prescribed 7-8 days of RICE again (Rest, Ice, Compression, Elevation).
Couldn't get an RMI done to assess the state of my ligaments since it would take 15 days to get an appointment plus it should be prescribed by my doctor who is now on holliday until February 21st.
Better safe than sorry, so I am leaving by train to Sevilla where I will be waiting for Casey who will walk there in approximately 10 days. I hope then that my foot will be ready to hike at least a few km.
In the meantime I'll try to get an RMI done in Sevilla...
Casey and I walk side by side and slowly through the streets of the beautiful old city center of El puerto de Santa Maria...The railway station is only 1.5km away from the hospital and Casey's next destination is in the same direction...on our path..
Now forbidden, corridas used to take place in this amphitheater: the second biggest one in Spain..They now have to repurpose its use.
The fountain in its front is standing as a tribute to this ancestral "sport" which is, nowadays, at last considered barbaric and proscribed..one point against animal cruelty! Hope the statue will undergo the same fate as the ones of the slaves traders and colonialists in 2020.
A very old and beautiful church elected as a summer residence by the Storks perched on top of it...if you have good eyes, you can see 4 of them on this picture.
The garden of the nearby monastery, shaded by palm trees, is very inviting. We wish we had more time to enjoy it but the clock is ticking: I have to catch the next train to Sevilla and Casey has 4 hours of hike to do to reach what should have been the goal of the day for both of us: Jerez de la frontera.
- Next step: Celine is leaving for Sevilla
Sitting on the row of seat facing me, thos woman's bag attracts my attention, I have just left my love behind, walking his way to Sevilla while I am taking the fast track. We'll see each other again in a few days..still this little message touches my heart...Sending the picture to Casey to encourage him on this solo part of our adventures: Love is true!
I arrive in Sevilla at nightfall. I was supposed to stay at Casey's friend's place for a few days, but 30 minutes before my arrival, she got herself tested and is covid-positive..Last minute change of plan, I book myself a bed in a youth hostel: Oasis Palace for backpackers...very cheap for a palace. I then decide to test my ankle and walk the 20 minutes that separate me from the hostel.
This massive edifice is called by the locals: the mushroom. At night it lights up and relaxing music is played there while colours are fading in and out: beautiful sight.
This massive edifice is called by the locals: the mushroom. At night it lights up and relaxing music is played there while colours are fading in and out: beautiful sight.
The same cow as in Cadiz, cheering me up again with its very alsacian-sounding "ale hop"!
I am definitely hopping my way through Sevilla.
I am definitely hopping my way through Sevilla.
After a few detours (there are 2 Oasis for backpackers in town)...I arrive at last at my hostel...Good surprise: they have a roof top patio with a swimming pool and an ELEVATOR..yes!!! I am less likely to sprain another ankle going down staircases. I open the treat I had bought earlier to share with Casey's friend.
A group of people is gathered there around a coffee table, chatting lively...I share the wine!
Another surprise is in the cards for me: one of the hostel's guest is a magician and gives us a full show of his very impressive card tricks. Very good showmanship! Free entertainment and also...magic is back!
A group of people is gathered there around a coffee table, chatting lively...I share the wine!
Another surprise is in the cards for me: one of the hostel's guest is a magician and gives us a full show of his very impressive card tricks. Very good showmanship! Free entertainment and also...magic is back!
- Next step: Casey is walking to Jerez de la Frontera : 22 km
He is now in the suburbs, the place is quite dodgy, but on his way funny graffiti are there to cheer him up.
In the next few days, Casey and I will communicate with vocal messages where Casey will describe his experience.
Today in his second message, he tells me that he is now walking along the highway, about to reach Jerez de la Frontera, seeking silence, and a spot to pitch his tent before hitting the city.
In the next few days, Casey and I will communicate with vocal messages where Casey will describe his experience.
Today in his second message, he tells me that he is now walking along the highway, about to reach Jerez de la Frontera, seeking silence, and a spot to pitch his tent before hitting the city.
Casey's photographer eyes love the contrast between the colourful houses and the shadows of the palm trees.
La luna ...inside joke for us!
On his way Casey walks surrounded by beautiful trees in bloom which are looking like flowery weeping willows, they were exhaling a sweet fragrant perfume: a treat for Casey's sensitive nose.
An abandoned finca 1km after the city of Puerto de Santa Maria has a beautiful view of the ocean. However, noone seems to enjoy it : you could tell that the fields around the property were not taken care of for a long time..and people started to draw graffiti all around its walls.
Right next to it, another ruin...
Just before Jerez de la Frontera, in its outskirts, Casey finds the perfect place to camp next to a little lake.
22 km done, for a total of 324 + 22 km = 346 km
- Day 39: February 15th:
Casey is walking from Jerez de la Frontera to La laguna de los Tollos - 28 km
Casey is hoping to find his way to get out of the big city of Jerez de la Frontera, looking for the yellow arrows of the Camino Augusta. His next step is 30 km and 6h away.
When he leaves at last the town, he walks out towards the North but it takes him a while to get out of the suburbs...the scenery is quite typical now with dodgy houses, garbage everywhere, lots of animal in sheds surrounded by barb wires or everything people could find to build a fence to protect the animals in their properties. You could hear dogs barking everywhere.
He gets out of that part and reaches a hill from which he can see, once more, the beautiful ocean in the distance: saying goodbye.
Then he walks 9 more km along the highway to reach La laguna de los Tollos. He finds another lake to pitch his tent nearby..
There, he meets only hikers but a little while before, around a first lake, there were lots of teenagers hanging out, drinking, shouting so he walked a bit further to find a quieter place next to a second lake conveniently located right next to the Camino trail.
When he leaves at last the town, he walks out towards the North but it takes him a while to get out of the suburbs...the scenery is quite typical now with dodgy houses, garbage everywhere, lots of animal in sheds surrounded by barb wires or everything people could find to build a fence to protect the animals in their properties. You could hear dogs barking everywhere.
He gets out of that part and reaches a hill from which he can see, once more, the beautiful ocean in the distance: saying goodbye.
Then he walks 9 more km along the highway to reach La laguna de los Tollos. He finds another lake to pitch his tent nearby..
There, he meets only hikers but a little while before, around a first lake, there were lots of teenagers hanging out, drinking, shouting so he walked a bit further to find a quieter place next to a second lake conveniently located right next to the Camino trail.
Rira bien qui rira le dernier...Laughs best who laughs last!
Again the same cactus decaying after being infested by the pest coming from the lipstick factory.
Walking in the outskirts of Jerez, Casey's is shocked to see garbage scattered all around.
Passing by a village proud of its agricultural/rural history and roots.
Ugly factory located right in the inner city center, polluting the nearby river which is already showing signs of drought in winter.Casey
At last Casey finds a river that is not dried out and seems to be clean enough for him to get himself a cat wash.
Lost kids becomes Lost kid in my absence...Casey's walking for them..don't forget to donate!
The camino is unfortunately leading the pilgrims to Sevilla by following the highway..not the best spiritual experience you would hope for.
One of the rare lakes on Casey's way becomes the best experience for a breathtaking sunset and sunrise.
28 km done for a total of 346 + 28 km = 374 km
-Meanwhile in Sevilla Celine is resting foot up and busking in the evening.
Or the reverse...
Now I understand why they call themselves a Palace...there are worse places to recover.
Best icing station with the view of Sevilla rooftops.
Playing chess with a few hostel guests: best distraction to think away my foot injury.
La Campana, funded in 1858, is one of the oldest pastry and candy shop in the city: one day, I will come in and stuff myself with its delicacies.
The mushroom by day...
- Day 40: February 16th
-Casey is walking from la Laguna de Los Tollos to Club de Piraguismo Tarfia.
A little sport while waiting for the bus?
How Spain tries to encourage healthy habits for its citizens.
How Spain tries to encourage healthy habits for its citizens.
The only farms and houses surviving in the heat are the ones blessed with a water whell.
Vineyards trying to survive in the hot and dry climate.
The sunset on the road, lighting up the sky on fire.
Casey's home surrounded by Spanish farmland.
15 km done for a total of 374 + 15 km = 389 km
-Meanwhile in Sevilla Celine...
On my hopping/hoping way to take the bus to the Hospital, I've found this little miniature of a coffee place..they serve breakfast all day long..an address to keep in mind.
The hospital is located on Sevilla's university campus...and its avenue is lined up with Palm trees: what a sweet students' life it must be.
...waiting again in the emergency clinic in the hospital de la virgen de Rocio to try and get an MRI done...
Result: almost the same answer as last time...only difference: The doctor could speak English and told me that an MRI is not necessary (as opposed to being unable to provide it)...Rest is the solution prescribed..which I already knew...Then testing walking according to the level of pain. Not very precise but it will do!
Result: almost the same answer as last time...only difference: The doctor could speak English and told me that an MRI is not necessary (as opposed to being unable to provide it)...Rest is the solution prescribed..which I already knew...Then testing walking according to the level of pain. Not very precise but it will do!
They've insisted to put me in a wheelchair. I tried to tell them that I am perfectly able to walk...coming here without crutches...still I get the royal treat of being wheeled around in the narrow corridors and door frames.
God seems to be not so kind even to his/her most devoted servants...
Heading to the cathedral to find a busking spot, I meet, Jesus, a street artist from South-America. He is quite the mystic, explaining to me that soon will start the era of the Goddess: a golden age of freedom. He also talks about the difficulty to make a living as a street artist in Sevilla: people are to self-absorbed, forgetting to appreciate the beauty around them. For Jesus, streets artists are like little angels introducing sparks of beauty and light in the lives of the busy bees. They don't necessary notice it, but while rushing down the streets, their consciousness takes in the colours of a painting, the melody and lyrics of a song, and this little seed of beauty makes slowly its way to open their minds, eyes and hearts : inspiring them to slow down, savor these moments of beauty and enjoy the delicate scent of roses (well, not really in the streets of a big city, the predominant smell being the one of dog/human urine and manure)
Jesus gives me one of his mystical handmade parchment which tells you how the era of freedom will come to manifest itself in the World : viva la libertad!
Jesus gives me one of his mystical handmade parchment which tells you how the era of freedom will come to manifest itself in the World : viva la libertad!
Ahhh the smell of Candy ...many of these shops trying to pull you in with their very tantalizing whiff of sugar bombs.
I love the square-shaped haircut of these trees.
A bar for universal people entertaining a close relationship with a store that's seem to promote an Andalucian version of child beauty pageant with miniatures flamenco dresses on display.
One of Sevilla's many charming city squares.
The cathedral of Sevilla: marvellous when it lights up at night.
Little disappointment of the evening: I was setting up my little busking station in a small street lined up with restaurants, next to the Cathedral, when, bummer, a Police car came by and a police officer, flashing his badge, asked me discretely to repack everything. I didn't even have the time to play one note! Having heard from another street musician, performing in the city, that this might happen but quite rarely, I am wondering how I managed to attract this lack of luck again, when, a few streets down a woman was playing accordeon way more obviously!
To cheer me up, good food: it's paella night at the hostel.
- Day 41: February 17th:
Casey is ready to rumble. His experience this morning: walking against a strong wind and under a hot sun. Everything around him is dry, passing by abandoned farms, ruins and here and there a rare Olive tree. The lack of water must have pushed the people away from the area.
During the night he kept hearing what seems to be gunshots..not very reassuring.
This morning walking along farmlands, he understands where the loud noise came from: the farmers here protect their fields with what Casey's call "air explosions". Air pistols powered by pressurized Gas. The famers have, around their fields, big camping gas barrels connected by a pipe to these pistols that shoot every 2 minutes. This, in order to scare away birds and other wildlife animals which could damage their crops.
They also hang up silver/aluminium ribbons in their fields which are designed to disturb the birds' vision.
During the night he kept hearing what seems to be gunshots..not very reassuring.
This morning walking along farmlands, he understands where the loud noise came from: the farmers here protect their fields with what Casey's call "air explosions". Air pistols powered by pressurized Gas. The famers have, around their fields, big camping gas barrels connected by a pipe to these pistols that shoot every 2 minutes. This, in order to scare away birds and other wildlife animals which could damage their crops.
They also hang up silver/aluminium ribbons in their fields which are designed to disturb the birds' vision.
20 km done for a total of 389 + 20 km = 409 km
-Meanwhile in Sevilla Celine...
I am leaving the hostel late afternoon, direction la Alameda de Hercules (recommended by Vincent the magician), prospecting for a great place to busk. I love this city with its charming streets, its colourful houses and their traditional balconies.
On my way to get there, I am taking pictures of the streets name whenever I find a plaza with busy bars/restaurants and most importantly a bench where I could set up my little station and sing my heart away.
In case, I'd like to live one day in this beautiful city, I could eventually work as a French or English teacher...taking notes for potential languages school.
Again, beauty everywhere!
On the pavement, again a great suggestion for a working place, here, in Sevilla...even better!
I could teach biology in both French and English...And I could go there on Saturday to get more info on what the requirement might be to be a teacher for their Lycee. Parfait!
I could teach biology in both French and English...And I could go there on Saturday to get more info on what the requirement might be to be a teacher for their Lycee. Parfait!
At last, I've found my busking jewel of a place: 2 restaurants, the beautiful Basilica de Jesus del Gran Poder and welcoming benches.
I play from 7pm to 11pm. A row of the cutest fascinated kids, sit in front of me : always the best public.
I play from 7pm to 11pm. A row of the cutest fascinated kids, sit in front of me : always the best public.
After a few hours playing for the customer of the bar San Lorenzo, one of the waiters bring me a glass of water...I definitely love this plaza!
As I am limping back to the hostel, I find this bar/restaurant open until midnight: they are recommended by the michelin guide. I treat myself with the money earned and eat there delicious tapas. Another Plaza to come back to.
- Day 42: February 18th:
Day 38 to Day 45: The ground is so dry here that it is cracked...a trap where hiking poles stay easily stuck. Casey's grilling literally, no shade and a thirst that often cannot be quenched and sweat that cannot be washed off by the many dried out rivers.
Casey walks along a km-long water canal that belongs to a "water cartel". They control the channels connected to the irrigation system of each finca and sell their water to the farmers around who deeply depend on it. While walking Casey meets the security man guarding the private property. He is asked to leave the premises.
The Andalucian people have forgotten for the last past years that it takes years for an olive tree to bear fruits. They are now planting abundantly new olive trees to replace the old trees they've been cutting or selling away unconsciously.
25 km done for a total of 409 + 25 km = 434 km
-Meanwhile in Sevilla Celine...
is collecting recipes ideas to optimise the use of our camping stove .
Heading then to meet Sarah 2:30pm in a nearby restaurant Alvarez...3 tapas, many beers and 10 hours of deep conversation later...I got myself a new friend..We'll meet again tomorrow for a Picasso exhibition in the museum.
Casey had not the time to see some covid-free flamenco yet, I am keeping this one for him.
Sarah has even a better place to suggest. I am looking forward to his arrival in the city.
Sarah has even a better place to suggest. I am looking forward to his arrival in the city.