BLOG: Our daily adventures,
Week 2: Los Barrios to Tarifa
January 15th - 21st
- Day 8: January 15th - From Los Barrios to El Pelayo - 23km
Yes!! At last another mean to find our way than google map...for the next bit we'll just follow the Sendero Europeo Arco Mediterraneo E12.
On our path, what seems to be a rundown farm with sheep this time. Everything here is upcycled: corrugated sheets for roofing, any type of old drift wood to build their fence, old bathtub used as a trough, plastic crates scattered here and there...
Casey is leading the way on our first scenic hike into the mountains with a view of Gibraltar's rock in the distance...we've walked quite a long way already :)
Our lunch break with a stunning view of the mountains above Los Barrios. We meet here 3 new friends (Sid, Chris and Ravier) who are all studying Marine Biology and Environmental science. Their university is located at the southern point of Gibraltar, a wide campus with the most perfect view of the Sea.
We talk briefly about what Dr. Robinson had pointed out to us a few days earlier:
Gibraltar has a problem with water: tap is drinkable but all the waste water, the water of the toilet end up in the sea water. Now, they have a desalination plant so everything is made from sea water but they used to have to collect water, because there was no river here, in huge tanks again inside the rock. And those tanks are all still there.
As surprising and shocking as it might be, Gibraltar has no sewage treatment, everything goes straight into the sea. One of the problems is that the government says it’s not that bad because they pump it quite a long way out into the Atlantic. Well, apparently they don’t and, even if they did, the tide brings it back in. There is a gradient between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean Sea and the water flows from the Atlantic into the Mediterranean Sea and evaporates in the Mediterranean. So, actually there is a tide that brings it all into the Mediterranean Sea which, according to the words of Dr. Robinson, "is literally filing up with shit".
These students are there to inform us, that (despite the annoyance of not being able to jump happily in the water of Gibraltar's few beaches) human faeces are actually a good thing for the ecosystem of the Sea. They serve as a natural fertilizer, bringing nutrients which are feeding the reef.
We talk briefly about what Dr. Robinson had pointed out to us a few days earlier:
Gibraltar has a problem with water: tap is drinkable but all the waste water, the water of the toilet end up in the sea water. Now, they have a desalination plant so everything is made from sea water but they used to have to collect water, because there was no river here, in huge tanks again inside the rock. And those tanks are all still there.
As surprising and shocking as it might be, Gibraltar has no sewage treatment, everything goes straight into the sea. One of the problems is that the government says it’s not that bad because they pump it quite a long way out into the Atlantic. Well, apparently they don’t and, even if they did, the tide brings it back in. There is a gradient between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean Sea and the water flows from the Atlantic into the Mediterranean Sea and evaporates in the Mediterranean. So, actually there is a tide that brings it all into the Mediterranean Sea which, according to the words of Dr. Robinson, "is literally filing up with shit".
These students are there to inform us, that (despite the annoyance of not being able to jump happily in the water of Gibraltar's few beaches) human faeces are actually a good thing for the ecosystem of the Sea. They serve as a natural fertilizer, bringing nutrients which are feeding the reef.
In full bloom in winter, this Acacia Dealbata is actually coming (like the Eucalyptus trees) from Australia. In Spain, due to its colonizing potential and constituting a serious threat to native species, habitats or ecosystems, this species has been included in the Spanish Catalog of Invasive Exotic Species. Its introduction into the natural environment, possession, transport, traffic and commerce are now prohibited in Spain.
We leave the main trail to follow a narrow Sendero (which looks more like a riverbed) leading to El Pelayo. This path seems to be one that the locals use to go running or ridding their horses (very strong smell) in the mountain despite the many rocks and tripping hazards. One man just dart passed us running fast as an arrow and light as a kite, while we snail our way down the slippery slope.
We arrive quite late in El Pelayo, we have pushed ourselves to make a few extra km just to see if we could reach our goal of a crusing speed of 22km/day and also to make sure we make it before the only grocery shop closes.
23km done!
23km done!
In the grocery shop, we meet our new friend Juan who offers us to sleep at his place. Living quite simply by himself with his 5 dogs, Juan's home has been accumulating quite a lot of dust...his backyard becomes our campsite for the night. Juan's hospitality, joy and generosity are making our day. Happy to be so nicely welcomed! His dogs amplify our feeling of being bienvenidos by covering us with enthusiastic fingers and faces licking: very loving!
Juan's is a music lover, as soon as we pass the gate leading to his house, he hurries inside to play us "purple rain" full blast. This and the wink given by the grocery shop owner when Juan's offered his hospitality, reassures us: we found the best man of the village to be with! From there begins a fun evening of spanish storytelling. Casey's becoming almost fluent at the end of the evening: he is translating to me what he is picking up from Juan's body language...he might have told us quite a different story...but somehow our broken Spanish seems to be enough to laugh at the presumably same jokes. Our Guitalele gets out of its shell and plays for a good part of the night accompanied by Juan's fast Flamenco-like clapping. Great time!
Juan's is a music lover, as soon as we pass the gate leading to his house, he hurries inside to play us "purple rain" full blast. This and the wink given by the grocery shop owner when Juan's offered his hospitality, reassures us: we found the best man of the village to be with! From there begins a fun evening of spanish storytelling. Casey's becoming almost fluent at the end of the evening: he is translating to me what he is picking up from Juan's body language...he might have told us quite a different story...but somehow our broken Spanish seems to be enough to laugh at the presumably same jokes. Our Guitalele gets out of its shell and plays for a good part of the night accompanied by Juan's fast Flamenco-like clapping. Great time!
The next morning, Juan introduces us to his German friend Steve, who was passing by. He lives close to Bolonia, we will see each other again soon when we'll be in the area.
We've walked a few extra-miles to go to El Pelayo: our first big hike close to our cruising goal of 22 km (23km done!)
Total: 85+23=108 km
Total: 85+23=108 km
- Day 9: January 16th - Roaming around El Pelayo and starting hiking on the E12 towards the coast line - 11.5km
After a cup of "leche chocolatada" on Juan's rooftop patio, we head to the countryside for a walk on the hills with Juan's 5 dogs: Rita, the mother of them all, leads the pack.
On our way, Juan shows us how nature's providing plenty of food for those who can recognize what's edible: green asparagus, wild Mint. In his own garden we could pick our own oranges and clementines.
Juan, always smiling, is very happy here, living simply according to his motto "Quiero solamente vivir". Despite our poor Spanish understanding, we enjoyed his numerous jokes and extremely joyful mood.
Looks like someone has been peeling palm trees and piled it up there, ready to ignite a fire.
Juan's lead us to the upper hills of El Pelayo, he wants to show us the fountain where all the villagers are supplying themselves with drinking water. We witness again, the same carnival as we've seen 2 days earlier in San Roque, people climbing up and down the hill with their big jugs of water. The tap water in this area of Spain is known to be quite disgusting (if not toxic) to drink. And, spring water is a free alternative to the expansive water bottles sold in the Supermercado.
Gigantic cactus...
A colourful house attracts our flashes..So many flowers blooming..the inhabitants of El Pelayo know how to beautify their home.
Casey was filming the village streets leading to the Boris Bar, when 2 officers of la guarda civil were stepping out of it..they came directly to him and quite forcefully "explained" he should erase what he had captured with his camera. They requested his passeport and were pointing at the expiration date with a frown...still valid but not for long...Coming out of the bathroom, I intervene with my broken Spanish, just in time, to calm down a situation that could have rapidly escalated.
The local grocery store has exotic birds to sell. all of the colours of the Rainbow represented!
Apparently they are fancy for the local population who get them imported from Africa.
Casey and Juan posing with their new friend the not-so-scary scarecrow.
We wouldn't want to neglect the rules of the villagers...so here we go!
After inviting Juan for a delicious meal at the Restaurante Las Piedras (We all share a succession of succulent dishes - crispy roasted fish - veal coming from the local farm and Venison hunted in the forest nearby....Que viva la cocina Española!), it is time to say goodbye to our friend: let's do this in dogs' hugs!
Juan walks with us for a few km out of the village to make sure we find a great place to set our camp. Mission accomplished, lovely spot with a view next to a little pond.
We learned later, from Juan's german friend Steve, that El Pelayo could be quite dangerous, being a platform where drug smugglers have elected as their prefered headquarters. This could explain why, again, we get a late evening visit from the same two officers from la guarda civil...Just checking in on how we were doing.
We learned later, from Juan's german friend Steve, that El Pelayo could be quite dangerous, being a platform where drug smugglers have elected as their prefered headquarters. This could explain why, again, we get a late evening visit from the same two officers from la guarda civil...Just checking in on how we were doing.
Despite our stay in El Pelayo, we still managed to walk a good 11.5km while following Juan who was showing us around.
11.5km done for a total of 108 + 11.5=119.5km
- Day 10: January 17th - Hiking on the E12 Sendero Europeo Arco Mediterraneo along the coast of Trafalgar to Tarifa - 19.5km
Sunny departure, we hike towards the Sea, we pass a "planta eolica", 12 turbines turning fast and loudly with the heavy wind...we can already feel the salt in the air.
For now we are crossing farmlands on the hill side.
In the next small agglomeration, Casey's gaze rest supon the gigantic Aloe Vera extensions planted along the very secluded and wealthy summer houses and properties.
We reach the coastline, private beach for this white horse.
We are now at the Torre de Guadalmesi. Built in the 16th century by order of Philip 2, it is part of the system of watchtowers and defence fortifications along Trafalgar's Coast.
Strategically built next to the Guadalmesi river's mouth, it was designed to help control the Strait and prevent the enemies fleets from supplying themselves with the stream's fresh water.
It was the only place of the whole stretch of the Traflagar's coastline where water could be collected in the summer.
Casey's waiting for me in a little view point behind the tower...the only place offering a mere shelter from the furious wind coming from the African Coast.
Sitting on the floor seems to be the best option to be wind-protected. Facing me, the outline of the mountains on the African side.
Casey finds himself an even better view point to avoid shivering and to prevent himself and/or our lunch to fly out!
We point at Africa, thinking about our friends Ava and Fazineh and their project to built a community center in Sierra Leone.
Keep the donations going this way!
Along the shoreline, we come across this burnt down minivan. This isolated and supposedly protected part of the Strait Natural Park, seems to be the go-to place for the locals to get rid of their old stuff.
We find also loads of these scattered along the Coast. Leftovers of the wreckage of the rubber boats used by refugees or drugs smugglers to cross over from Africa....
...ghosts blown by the wind against the sharp rocks of the shoreline
An "espacio" unfortunately not so "libre de basura"
We walk along a path carved in the rocks by the winds...stunning landscapes along the Arco Mediterraneo trail. We only cross path with these nonchalant mooing ladies.
Casey is riding the wind ...finally free as a bird!
Somehow these gates are always too small for our backpacks...we have to either slide underneath or jump over! 5 of them today, we feel like in a show of jumping obstacles.
My happy face just before the wind stole away my cap which I thought was securely held on my head by my bad-hair-day pony tail.
Nope, it wasn't.... I run 5 meters to catch it and snap...("c'est le choc" like Casey would say with is legendary french ..)
I feel like someone just threw a massive stone on the back of my left leg.
The cap is back..my leg not so...
Nope, it wasn't.... I run 5 meters to catch it and snap...("c'est le choc" like Casey would say with is legendary french ..)
I feel like someone just threw a massive stone on the back of my left leg.
The cap is back..my leg not so...
Casey stays optimistic, communicating his "We will be ok! " to the sun.
Just a few more km to reach Tarifa...
I limp merrily for the rest of the way
Just a few more km to reach Tarifa...
I limp merrily for the rest of the way
We arrive in Tarifa just after the sunset...
Celine's limping, Casey's wondering
Celine's limping, Casey's wondering
Little reward at a cafe where we book ourselves, as initially planned, 2 nights in a youth hostel, thinking already that we might have to extend our stay...
We knock at the door of the "Highfliers hostel" which dangerously looks like a "closed-for-the-winter" institution.
Kevin, owner, Kite surfing instructor and living here for 16 years ends up opening.
He is cooking himself dinner when we come in and has to quickly run back to the kitchen to turn off the stove. We are under the impression we've knocked at the wrong door and are disturbing a random Tarifa's inhabitant.
But, no....it is the right address!
Kevin gives us a relatively warm welcome despite us being quite unexpected (we booked only 20 minutes earlier)...
We are the only guests in his tiny hostel, so we feel like old friends coming for a visit, especially when we help him change the bed sheets in our bedroom.
Now it is "Voltarène on Ice" time for me..
Kevin, owner, Kite surfing instructor and living here for 16 years ends up opening.
He is cooking himself dinner when we come in and has to quickly run back to the kitchen to turn off the stove. We are under the impression we've knocked at the wrong door and are disturbing a random Tarifa's inhabitant.
But, no....it is the right address!
Kevin gives us a relatively warm welcome despite us being quite unexpected (we booked only 20 minutes earlier)...
We are the only guests in his tiny hostel, so we feel like old friends coming for a visit, especially when we help him change the bed sheets in our bedroom.
Now it is "Voltarène on Ice" time for me..
Tarifa: 19.5km of hiking/limping done!
for a Total 119.5+ 19.5= 139km
for a Total 119.5+ 19.5= 139km
- Day 11 to Day 14: January 18th - January 21st: Tarifa - Resting a few days here.
Day 11: Enjoying our stay at the highfliers hostel and Tarifa's cuisine
From the windy rooftop, where we have hanged quite tightly our first wash (lesson learned: I'll never run again after a piece of clothing!), we can see the citadelle. Kevin points out that just before the sunset a big flock of chirping Starlings fly on the castel battlements and half an hour later off they go, flying again...we witness and capture the fleeting moment.
Casey enjoying tapas, coffee and beer at the first windproof place we've found. Valentin, the gastronomic guide we've met on day 5, told us that Tarifa was famous for its delicious Tuna Tartar. So our tapas today are all Tuna based.
We meet here again Juan's friend Steve the carpenter and his amigo Jochen the baker.
We ask them a few questions that were left unanswered while observing a few things on our way: Cork trees, dying cactus, refugees, busking policy, where to buy gaz for our portable stove etc..
Steve gives me indications on the good spots to busk. Funny enough: he tells us that, during the high-covid season, busking was prohibited, and live musicians were told by the authorities that the virus was traveling via their microphone through their cables to be then widely spread amongst the population through their speakers. Vive la science!
He also invites us to spend a few nights at his place when we will arrive in Bolonia. Perfect!
We meet here again Juan's friend Steve the carpenter and his amigo Jochen the baker.
We ask them a few questions that were left unanswered while observing a few things on our way: Cork trees, dying cactus, refugees, busking policy, where to buy gaz for our portable stove etc..
Steve gives me indications on the good spots to busk. Funny enough: he tells us that, during the high-covid season, busking was prohibited, and live musicians were told by the authorities that the virus was traveling via their microphone through their cables to be then widely spread amongst the population through their speakers. Vive la science!
He also invites us to spend a few nights at his place when we will arrive in Bolonia. Perfect!
Again, a Castle built with the Moorish touch, rounded balconies. It is standing by itself, right next to the harbor, as if, being part of a different era, created a small isolated bubble surrounded by preserved nature.
The Kite-surfers, unashamed, are doing their acrobatic dance in the forefront, while right behind them, la isla de Paloma is to Tarifa what Staten Island used to be for New York - a place where Refugees are held captives until "being processed" (locals term) and most of the time sent back home.
Little treat in restaurant with a preserved medieval architecture: la vaca loca. We are enjoying family-size plates of a well kept Secreto Iberico and some Chuletas di Cordero.
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Day 12: My leg being still reluctant to heal fast, we book the small Irene's Airbnb. It comes with its own rooftop patio and is surprisingly way cheaper than any hostel price - including the one we were staying at (Thank you low season!).
Irene is quite charming !
Irene is quite charming !
Hardcore Backpackers ;)
And yes, despite our forced extended stay, we are right where we should be...at least that what we are told in our new happy home.
Rest and recovery time, is needed. I apply the recommended G.R.E.C. method: Glace, Repos, Elevation, Compression. I have seen sexier days.
Still we dare to limp a little through the charming cobblestones streets of Tarifa.
Beautiful fountain, moorish influences with its colourful tiles, geometrical shapes...
What should we though understand from its centerpiece: an innocent beheaded Swan?
What should we though understand from its centerpiece: an innocent beheaded Swan?
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Day 13: Flamenco evening at the Almedina. Meeting Odi - the swiss who never leaves his guitar behind and speaks fluently spanish after just 6 weeks in the country- and his german friend the lovely Maike. Spectacular show..one guitare, one singer, one dancer.
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Day 14: Extremely windy: in this kind of weather, only the pros are kite-surfing, we sit at the nearest beach bar to watch them flying and flipping their boards in the air.
We later go for a very slow stroll down the beach to meet Odi, Maike and our instantaneously new musicians friends at the Demente for the sunset.
Our small group takes over the whole bar with Odi's guitar being the catalyst of the evening. New pub-crawling friends: Odi, Maike, Clara, Josh and the Spanish joyful band!
Clara, German, and her South-African husband Josh were living in Portugal for a few years and gave us good adresses to visit while in Portugal: their own 2 guesthouses "Casa Shaz and Villa Shaz", and one of Clara's favorite's places: "Shanti space".
We are looking forward to meeting them again along our hiking path, since they might join us to walk part of the fishermen's trail.
Clara, German, and her South-African husband Josh were living in Portugal for a few years and gave us good adresses to visit while in Portugal: their own 2 guesthouses "Casa Shaz and Villa Shaz", and one of Clara's favorite's places: "Shanti space".
We are looking forward to meeting them again along our hiking path, since they might join us to walk part of the fishermen's trail.
We've shared an amazing fun time with this melting pot of new people: joking, laughing, singing, etc..
I feel a little bit less guilty, knowing that this wouldn't have happened to us:
- without my temporarily (fingers crossed) dysfunctional leg
- without my personal motto: to spend a great time just "follow the guitar". Thanks Odi for being the one leading the pack !
- without my temporarily (fingers crossed) dysfunctional leg
- without my personal motto: to spend a great time just "follow the guitar". Thanks Odi for being the one leading the pack !