BLOG: Our daily adventures,
Week 3: Tarifa to Facinas January 22nd - 28th
- Day 15 to Day 18: January 22nd - January 25th: Tarifa - Resting a few days here.
Day 15: extreme wind this saturday, cancelled kite surfing lessons for Casey, the wind is blowing too strongly for beginners.
It's perfect for a free skin-peeling session though with the powerful sand storms.
Forced to improvise some kind of hijab to prevent the sand to get into my ears..our beers however become quite crispy!
There is only 2 courageous or kamikaze kite-surfers still out there, jumping sometimes more than 10 meters high, doing what seems to be complicated figures with their boards.
Forced to improvise some kind of hijab to prevent the sand to get into my ears..our beers however become quite crispy!
There is only 2 courageous or kamikaze kite-surfers still out there, jumping sometimes more than 10 meters high, doing what seems to be complicated figures with their boards.
First busking session for me. I earn just enough to buy us a few tapas.
Open during the weekend, these little kiosks all around the city are only designed for buying lotterie tickets...Tarifa's inhabitants, we are concluding, are very optimistic people.
In the evening, we meet once more with Carla, Josh, Odi and Maike at a close by restaurant to get seafood. Saying goodbye, with the promise to see each other again in Portugal.
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Day 16-17-18: Full recovery and resting time for me to preserve/prepare myself for our next departure date on Wednesday, day 19. Blogging time/resting leg for me while Casey is running errands to find ourselves gaz for our stove, and a new warmer wind/water proof jacket for himself. He has also find a way to ease the pain of his shoulders when carrying his backpack: a mix between pink duct tape and bubble wrap.
Day 16-17-18: Full recovery and resting time for me to preserve/prepare myself for our next departure date on Wednesday, day 19. Blogging time/resting leg for me while Casey is running errands to find ourselves gaz for our stove, and a new warmer wind/water proof jacket for himself. He has also find a way to ease the pain of his shoulders when carrying his backpack: a mix between pink duct tape and bubble wrap.
He sets to the beach to feel the crazy wind blowing through..which has become a constant whistle.
It rains heavily on our last days in Irene's Airbnb...we discover that the flat isn't waterproof : water was leaking inside through cracks in the windows and had created a little stream dangerously leading to electrical sockets...Casey intervenes quickly as always and ''unflood'' us.
Last minute, sandwiches making for tomorrow.
It rains heavily on our last days in Irene's Airbnb...we discover that the flat isn't waterproof : water was leaking inside through cracks in the windows and had created a little stream dangerously leading to electrical sockets...Casey intervenes quickly as always and ''unflood'' us.
Last minute, sandwiches making for tomorrow.
- Day 19: January 26th - Leaving Tarifa and heading to the "Duna de Valdevaqueros" - Leg testing day!
At last, after a quick coffee to let the rain pass, we set sails to leave Tarifa.
The sun seems to have waited for us, drawing a rainbow for us to walk under along the promenade.
Lots of beautiful murals and poetic quotes which I have always loved to find inspiration for my songs...two of them ("La Sirène" and "The call of the Sea") refer of course to the mermaid whose voice is calling for the sailors to come her way. The brand of Casey's hat is "sailor". How could you, after noticing that, not believe in serendipity?
A mural depicting the tragedy which repeats itself along the European shorelines: refugees trying to cross the Strait from Africa, packed up on an often small rubber boat which end up drowning with its occupants before reaching the other side. The few who succeed are most of the time caught by the guarda civil which, we've experienced it, patrols the coastline even in the winter.
This time we are following the european trail E9 that we've planned to follow all the way up to Hamburg when we are hiking beside the Sea. No more googling our way! The spanish are quite amazing when it comes to indicating the hiking trails.
Farmer on the beach, quite unusual.
Doing pretty great for my first semi-limping hike out of Tarifa. I walk at a turtle pace but my leg is holding on. Happy!
The Rio leading its fresh water to the Sea. Instead of "All the paths lead to Rome", they should have say "All the rivers lead to the Sea": more accurate.
Ou bien, si je peux m'autoriser aussi un peu de poésie en français : "Tout retourne à la mer, à la mere (toutes 2 berceaux de la vie) ou à l'amer (berceau de la mort?)"
Ou bien, si je peux m'autoriser aussi un peu de poésie en français : "Tout retourne à la mer, à la mere (toutes 2 berceaux de la vie) ou à l'amer (berceau de la mort?)"
Seems like the perfect shack near the beach if you don't take the wind into account..its walls are bended by the frequent storms.
Quite a charming path, we meet two new friends who where doing some dance moves next to a bench: Karina and James, british who live in their flat in Tarifa mostly in the low season: september/october being the best time to be here according to them.
James advise us to test the local delicious "retinto" beef. Probably the Ocean's salty air makes their meat more tender. Didn't we see some cows down at the beach?
And, hearing about my project to busk across Europe, James recommends us to watch a documentary called "The red Elvis". It's about an american singer (rebel/revolutionist) who became famous in Berlin at the time where the DDR was still a thing. He got shot unfortunately a few days before he could come back to his Homeland. If I call myself "The purple Celine", I would love to get the fame but without the tragic fate.
After mentioning my recent injury, Karina (yoga teacher) shows me the best stretching exercises for my leg: perfect encounter!
We exchange briefly our contact details: we've made 2 new friends and followers.
James advise us to test the local delicious "retinto" beef. Probably the Ocean's salty air makes their meat more tender. Didn't we see some cows down at the beach?
And, hearing about my project to busk across Europe, James recommends us to watch a documentary called "The red Elvis". It's about an american singer (rebel/revolutionist) who became famous in Berlin at the time where the DDR was still a thing. He got shot unfortunately a few days before he could come back to his Homeland. If I call myself "The purple Celine", I would love to get the fame but without the tragic fate.
After mentioning my recent injury, Karina (yoga teacher) shows me the best stretching exercises for my leg: perfect encounter!
We exchange briefly our contact details: we've made 2 new friends and followers.
This cactus above is known for its popular very expensive/rare fruits. Sadly, its existence is threatened by a parasite/pest coming from abroad (same story as the australians eucalyptus and acacias).
The parasite (not unlike covid?) was spread out from a factory which used this insect/pest to produce lipstick. Apparently when killed, they were producing a very attractive red/purple color.
The parasite (not unlike covid?) was spread out from a factory which used this insect/pest to produce lipstick. Apparently when killed, they were producing a very attractive red/purple color.
The parasite doesn't target any particular cactus: in fact, all the cactus species are threatened. This healthy beautiful cactus, above, is one of the very few cactus, we've seen, which are still alive and well.
Here you can see, right above, an agonizing cactus from the same variety, eaten from inside by the parasite..apparently the threat is serious and most of the cactus along our way were dead or showing the first signs of an infection: a white/greyish colour (as indicated by Casey's pinky below).
Steve brought this fact to our attention, since Casey and I, have seen also many of these brownish/dead cactus on our way to Tarifa.
He told us that the cactus bearing eatable fruits became even more expensive now that they are being massively decimated by this foreign parasite.
He told us that the cactus bearing eatable fruits became even more expensive now that they are being massively decimated by this foreign parasite.
Casey the horse whisperer in action!
He also whispers to the chicken...having so many of them at the kinderhaus. I can feel his slight nostalgia while witnessing the poor way these chicken are living amongst plastic waste.
Beautiful yellow field of flowers!
Crossing the Rio Jara with what seems to be the remains of an old bridge in the distance.
At the entrance of the next Natural Park, this sign. These "new angels" are hired and paid by the kite surfing schools/instructors around Tarifa to save the surfers who get too far from the shore. For a minute there, I was hoping that they were "rescue angels" for the refugees lost at Sea.
We meet Fabian in a small beach bar which was cerrado for the low season but still offered a few benches to have our lunch break. He is taking kite surfing lesson with a friend who is an instructor. Casey is curious since we would like to get some kite surfing initiation in the future. It is, according to him, pretty hard to learn here in Tarifa because of the strong wind, you need a few days before you can demonstrate some kind of skills without seeming often "totally uncoordinated". But "once you've learned it in Tarifa, you can surf anywhere!"
Fabian also was interested in helping us encouraging donations, by being one of the very first to donate on the spot.
Fabian also was interested in helping us encouraging donations, by being one of the very first to donate on the spot.
Horseback riding might be absolutely perfect on this empty beach for the sunset. Romantic!
...ahhhhh the sunset
Here we have a quick break, we seat and have a few sandwiches for dinner. We meet Peter, Austrian and photograph, former windsurfer, who also wants to help and donate for our charity walk... I was very happy to take his picture holding our sign "I have donated for Innocence Lost Foundation".
UNFORTUNATELY (while scrolling down the pictures I have taken today to upload his in our mosaic of donators) I found nothing in my gallery.
We've been filming the sunset a few minutes before and forgot to switch back to "photo mode"..No traces of a picture or a video whatsoever. Grrrrr! clumsy me, I'm slightly disappointed.
PETER: if you read this, and want your picture to be added to our mosaic, you can send us via email your picture. You can do this, whenever you can, holding any piece of paper where you would have written "I've donated for Innocence Lost Foundation". Also we are looking forward to receiving one of your picture from the amazing shots (you undoubtedly will take) of the pro kite surfers in Tarifa.
Thank you for your donation! You are the first to have given on the spot, along our way!
UNFORTUNATELY (while scrolling down the pictures I have taken today to upload his in our mosaic of donators) I found nothing in my gallery.
We've been filming the sunset a few minutes before and forgot to switch back to "photo mode"..No traces of a picture or a video whatsoever. Grrrrr! clumsy me, I'm slightly disappointed.
PETER: if you read this, and want your picture to be added to our mosaic, you can send us via email your picture. You can do this, whenever you can, holding any piece of paper where you would have written "I've donated for Innocence Lost Foundation". Also we are looking forward to receiving one of your picture from the amazing shots (you undoubtedly will take) of the pro kite surfers in Tarifa.
Thank you for your donation! You are the first to have given on the spot, along our way!
Again, on this side of Tarifa, while looking for a place to sleep, we find 2 wrecks of rubber boats...we imagine the story.
We find the perfect spot on the beach, protected from the wind and next to a little river. Paradise!
.. Pitching our tent in the sand..not so easy though ;)
.. Pitching our tent in the sand..not so easy though ;)
But very worth it...little place in Heaven!
14km done
Total 139 + 14 = 153km
Total 139 + 14 = 153km
- Day 20: January 27th - Duna de Valdevaqueros to Bolonia - 14km
The morning starts well with my feet in the fresh water of the tiny river next to our campsite.
Ideal for testing the waters of the Atlantic, in dress of Eve! I know already that I can wash the salt away right after in the small stream so..
Let's jump head first in the waves! Happy Celine! I spent a few minutes doing my Osterputz in the river and off we go!
Today will be a long stroll along the beaches until Bolonia. The Rock formations on our way are just sublime.
However, while walking we find all sort of wreckage: the above, rusted barrel, and many remains of ...
rubber boats from the unlucky refugees ...
...wooden ones from the drugs smugglers and from the apparently "dirty gypsies"
This one crashed on the shore with its engine ...
..fishermen's nets...
We arrive now at the beach just before la duna de Valdevaqueros ..place of choice for the wind lovers and kite beginners.
They have indeed the right setting: fresh water from a rio on the right, the sea and playground on the left.
The duna de Valdevaqueros, located right after the semi-beginners' beach is impressive, the sand definitely is blowing this way...invading our eyes, ears and any orifices available.
The rocks carved by the Sea and the wind are just ...
Leaving our little trace in the sand :)
The locals, fishing fish and sometimes more...
Sand waves...
Casey posing in every peculiar rock shapes that we find on our way..time for a mini-lunch break.
Two clowns on the beach :)
The path leads us under a canope of pine trees.
Piscinas naturales de Bolonia. The sea breaks down on the first line of rocks and creates little ponds where you can swim without worrying about the tides and waves.
We've made it to Bolonia! And are enjoying the last rays of sun.
We arrive in Bolonia just after the sunset, a quite beautifully kept village with its bicycles flowerbeds....Steve picks us up at the local grocery shop where a lots of villagers are gathered.
...we leave quite quickly since Steve tells us that the ones who may look like peaceful villagers are just here in Bolonia to look for the drugs that a smugglers' boat had lost the day before...Gansters' town!
Not the innocent villagers we had in mind at all.
We are invited to sleep at Steve's place for a few nights in the hills above Bolonia in the small village of salaviciosa (translates vicious salt). Good food, good bred from his friend the baker, good company :!
...we leave quite quickly since Steve tells us that the ones who may look like peaceful villagers are just here in Bolonia to look for the drugs that a smugglers' boat had lost the day before...Gansters' town!
Not the innocent villagers we had in mind at all.
We are invited to sleep at Steve's place for a few nights in the hills above Bolonia in the small village of salaviciosa (translates vicious salt). Good food, good bred from his friend the baker, good company :!
14 km done
Total: 153 + 14= 167km
Total: 153 + 14= 167km
- Day 21: January 28th - Staying at Juan's german friend place in the hills next to Facinas.
Steve is a carpenter living in the property he is renovating...it will be a future retreat and yoga center.
After a delicious soup prepared by our friend, we help Steve taking care of the property by getting rid of the grass growing between the tiles.
We are going for a little walk in the hills.
Steve introduces us to who could have been our hiking compagnon if we had followed Casey's initial dream of walking through Europe with a donkey.
Steve tells us there are 20 of them in the village roaming free, if you don't close your fence, they'll come in and eat your veggie garden and plants...This happened to him last year and all the vegetables were gone.
Steve tells us there are 20 of them in the village roaming free, if you don't close your fence, they'll come in and eat your veggie garden and plants...This happened to him last year and all the vegetables were gone.
Here, everything blooms in the winter (winter is the new spring down there)
Amazingly beautiful landscape with the rocky mountains in the distance.
Dogs run freely around the village, and this one loves to be caressed from every sides.
Casey's photography passion in action. In the background one of the oldest windmill plant in Europe. Smart move to harvest the power of the constant winter Levante.
Very charming houses in the village. This one is owned by a belgium-german couple who made a little fortune selling a very good salsa.
3 amigos fading in the sunset.
Our cosy little chez-nous with our garden living room surrounded by Bamboos.
After a little improvised home concert given by Jochen at the guitar and I at the guitalele, we all head to our sleeping quarters.
We are staying for two more nights.
After our little stroll in the countryside, still, we've made another 7km.
Total 167 + 7 = 174km
After our little stroll in the countryside, still, we've made another 7km.
Total 167 + 7 = 174km