BLOG: Our daily adventures,
Week 39 - Praia As Catedrais to Luarca
April 2nd to 8th 2023
- Day 267: April 2nd: Praia As Catedrais to Rinlo - 7 km
Praia as Catedrais was so beautiful at sunset that we had to come back for the sunrise.
Percebes, a specialty in galicia that tastes like mussels and looks very phallic.
We made it early enough to avoid the crowd...a bus of retirees just arrived as we were leaving...the semana santa has begun and we can definitely feel the difference...people flocking on the beaches which usually are empty off season.
Casey has a real way with livestocks...after the horses, the cows...after e few moooo there they are, runing towards him.
Today we met Joke, a lively woman from Netherland, who is touring around Europe with her camper-van. We were on our way to a little hotel/restaurant "Porto de Rinlo" where we booked a night just to get some comfort: a bed, a warm meal and a hot shower. There, again, came by our new friend Joke so we decided to have drink together on the charming patio outside our hotel. A few vino verano later, we've got ourselves a date for next year when we'll be hiking on the coast of Netherland.
La semana sante just started in Spain and the restaurant is overflowed with locals who seemed to have come all the way here in Rinlo to eat the house specialty "Arros Caldoso" with seafood...we followed the herd and order ourselves the same...lobster (almost pulled a Julia Roberts move on this one while trying to extract some of its flesh with a plier) and almejas
This micro house has the best location of the village, built right on the cliffs..stunning view and charming little garden...
7 km done for a total of 3217 + 7 = 3224 km
- Day 268: April 3rd: Rinlo to Playa del Sarello - 17 km
The streets of Ribadeo.
Facade covered with seashells.
Back on the camino..del Norte this time.
Rusty and shaky bridge...when trucks are passing by, hold on to dear life...the bridge seems on the verge to collapse.
Auberge pour pelerins.
First damage to our little home, the wind was so powerful last night that one of the tent pole broke...we had to find a way to repair this crucial piece of equipment. We slide a little metallic cylindre and duck tape it above the crack and there we go..our tent is saved for now..
17 km done for a total of 3224 + 17 = 3241 km
- Day 269: April 4th: Playa del Sarello to Playa de Porcia - 15 km
Casey's beautiful sunrise...I missed it, still fast asleep wrapped as a worm in my sleeping bag.
Razor sharp carved rocks...
Pine tree needles..the best ground you can find to pitch a tent..we instantly regretted not to have walked another km yesterday evening to shelter us there from the heavy wind.
On the camino de Santiago, it is not unusual to witness these..small "deposito" , some villagers have prepared a little resting area for pilgrims with small carved wooden chairs and fresh fruits to bite in...miam!
The houses and gardens are beautifully taken care of..like this old lady, seeding her crops in a perfect curved line.
New piece of gear this year, and christmas gift from Casey...I have my own mini solar panel..it fits perfectly on my guitalele.
When going through Ribadeo, we had to make a small break in a decathlon store to find our (long awaited) gas bottles. I jumped on the occasion to buy myself a brand new rope/carabiners system to attach my instrument firmly to my backpack...result: it is better tied then before and doesn't bounce up and down like before and (cherry on top) it is now way easier to access it should I decide i want to play.
Casey's new favorite flowers...purple carpet as catwalk.
A whole new level: tandem figure surfing
Tapia de Casariego
We stumbled upon this art installation when walking through the woods...a little burning man spirit in there....a butterfly garden for me and a sailor lair for Casey (in short, it seemed to have been made just for us two)
Cherchez l'erreur!
We are freezing ...so we feel even happier to use our cooking gear for the first time for a warm meal. El menu del chef : pasta with tomato sauce, grilled chorizo and caramelized onions. We just shoveled our plates down as if we were starving for days..delicious
15 km done for a total of 3241 + 15 = 3256 km
- Day 270: April 5th: Playa de Porcia to Playa de Torbas - 17 km
Our night has been quite fresh as shown by this morning picture ...frozen grass surrounding our tent.
Our mini bialetti is back on service...what a treat to wake up with a good cup of coffee.
Tent drying sessio .
Another river which was shallow enough to cross....5km gained ..we won't have to walk to the next bridge inland.
We found the perfect little house, probably built illegally...with its access to a rocky beach and a river flowing right passed it...only accessible via a small hiking trail...the ideal hideaway.
Viavelez.
We arrived at the only restaurant for miles around 5 minutes too late..watching the customers eating waht looked like amazing food while the kitchen was officialy closed...no grocery shop and an empty stock of food in our backpacks...we have to eat liquid.
By some kind of miracle these platanes got connected to there neigbours on the opposite side. Two trees joining hands forming one ...beautiful
After the small fishing town of Viavelez, we reached the village of La Caridad and got a little confused as where to hike next. We luckily met Esperanza at a crossroad. She guided us back to our E9 trail and walked with us for 5 km.
Before going back to the coastline, as we were walking inland, we found a little bar which was selling simple sandwiches (2 loafs of bred between which was skeezed a rather meager slice of smoked ham, no sauce, no butter)...still we ate 3 of them to fill ourselves...at least we won't have to sleep on an empty stomach.
We walked with the light of the moon to guide us toward a perfect little spot under a small forest with a view of the sea.
17 km done for a total of 3256 + 17 = 3273 km
- Day 271: April 6th: Playa de Torbas to Playa de Frejulfe - 19 km
In Ortiguera,(Asturias), we found one little restaurant open (El Faro) on holy thursday...and it had the best burgers you could dream of. Casey is in heaven...
After having experienced so many barking dogs on our way..this felt like a wink from the universe.
Navia
Playa de Frejulfe and its stunning sunset.
19 km done for a total of 3273 + 19 = 3292 km
- Day 272: Playa de Frejulfe to Barayo Reserva Natural Partial - 10 km
This was an old quarry from which the locals extracted the slates that they used to tile their roofs.
Puerto de Vega
Who want paella?
Ocean plus the fresh water of a river..it's shower time.
Playing guitalele for sunset with a gorgeous view over playa de barayo O de la veiga.
10 km done for a total of 3292 + 10 = 3302 km
- Day 273: Barayo Reserva Natural Partial to Luarca - 14 km
"Ican buy myself flowers, write my name in the sand..."
Luarca
14 km done for a total of 3302+ 14 = 3316 km