BLOG: Our daily adventures,
Week 37 - Start of phase 2: Ortigueira to Punta Cameiro
March 19th to 25th 2023
- Day 253: March 19th 2023: Ortigueira to Playa de Vidueiros - 9 km
We are so happy: today starts our second phase of hiking!!!. This year our objective is to reach Bretagne (France). We landed in A coruna (Galicia) late afternoon on March 18th and went right away on a little exploration of the historical center of Galicia's capital.
The waterfront facades were quite impressive with their many windows and elegant arcades.
On our little stroll, we passed by the beautiful praza de Maria Pita. In the heart of A coruna, little paved alleys and streets are littered with attractive pubs and restaurants...unfortunately for our empty stomachs, none of them is serving food before 9pm...Galician people apparently start to eat "la cena" in average around 10pm...We have to resort to eat liquid: 2 glass of vino tinto and mini-empanadas later, too exhausted to wait for the late opening hours, we head back to our modest hostal. We arrived right on time there to order ourselves a simple fast-foody diner before bedtime...
The next day, we have to catch an early bus to Ferrol then a train to Ortigueira: point of origin of our hike this year!
The next day, we have to catch an early bus to Ferrol then a train to Ortigueira: point of origin of our hike this year!
And here we are, in Ortigueira, backpacks on, hiking sticks out, ready for our long journey and smiling like two clowns. We are lucky for our first day of hiking: the sun came out!
We walk right away to Ortigueira's little pier for a belated 4pm lunch at la terraza de Laura. We are again lucky, the kitchen was about to close when we got there...thank god for the kind waitress who negociated with the cook.
Two giant "cachopo de ternero" later, we start leaving town toward our first camping spot 9km away...
Two giant "cachopo de ternero" later, we start leaving town toward our first camping spot 9km away...
We've decided to begin with a short hike for our first day. We've adopted this cautious approach this year to avoid a revival of my early injuries of last year (one exploded calf and one sprained ankle right on the first month of walking).
Rio Baleo beautiful lagoon is just the perfect stunning view to enjoy for our first day this year.
The next few days we'll be hiking "la ruta del Cantabrico": a hiking trail recommended by a couple we've met right on our last day in Ortigueira. They had just finished their hike and were very excited to share their experience. The trail, which follow mainly the shoreline is supposed to be quite amazing and starts conveniently in Ortigueira and ends up in Ribadeo.
9 km done for a total of 3043 + 9 = 3052 km
- Day 254: March 20th: Playa de Vidueiros to Punta da Bandeixa - 9 km
We are so relieved to open our eyes on a very welcoming sunny morning! After a first fresh night of shivering in our sleeping bags, we were expecting a gloomy overcast weather...but no, we're lucky again...summertime temperatures and big bright sun! After a short walk under an eucalyptus forest, we find the ideal breakfast place between a spring and two palm trees...tropical beginning!
Right on track! No need to dig our noses down on a map....we'll just have to follow the indications on our way..sweet!
The little costal town of espasante...a charming pearl of a village on our way..the villagers took really good care of their surroundings.
charming promenade on the waterfront...
...cute little bridge over a crystal-clear stream
We took a little break at the cafe Os vellos for dos cafe con leche y dos canas...we were not expecting to be fed too...the waitress brought us a full plate of french fries with roasted pork..Casey's lunch has just been delivered free of charge.
I've just found my new sombrero at the nearby grocery store...how to make myself happy with 4 euros...now I feel almost as sophisticated as Casey with his fancy Stetson hat.
et zou..une autre photo du beau chapeau..juste pour le plaisir de se selfiser.
9 km done for a total of 3052 + 9 = 3061 km
- Day 255: March 21st: Punta da Bandeixa to playa Esteiro - 10 km
These cow are living with the best view ...
We just climbed a steep hill and have to take off our jackets...just to put them back on when the wind picks up and the sun hides behind the clouds...our day has been a succession of dressing and undressing ourselves.
Here at the cliffs of Loiba, you can find the best bench in the world...we had to stop..
...sit back, relax and enjoy the view..
a 360 degres panorama of pure beauty!
Cute little friends met on our way.
Rough coastline, vertiginous cliffs, breathtaking landscapes, small authentic villages, preserved nature, no destructive mass tourism...
...Galicia...a hidden treasure
...Galicia...a hidden treasure
A trail lined with pine trees like I love them.
We arrived at playa de esteiro, a little haven that we'll be enjoying for the next few days. Casey booked a little place for 3 nights, the last luxury feeling before fully switching back to tent mode. We'll be then going full throttle by increasing our daily rhythm to a cruising speed of ideally 17km/day.
The most charming little cottage was just waiting for us.
10 km done for a total of 3061 + 10 = 3071 km
- Day 256 & 257: March 22nd-23rd: Little break at Playa Esteiro
Don't be fooled by theses alluring flowers....look in between and watch out..there you'll find not so friendly sharpened needles...These lovelies are the cause of our main struggle here when walking along the coastline. We always have to be careful, negotiating a safe path between spikes and brambles...
The pine trees are in bloom and when the wind blows (which is always the case along this stretch of the atlantic coast), their pollen is travelling forming yellow clouds which leave a golden powder everywhere : puddles , ground, chairs, tables...and most annoyingly clothes...we've been turned into sepia colours instantaneously.
Between two heavy rain showers, we ventured out of our little nest to climb up the neighbouring cliffs..the sound of the waves crashing on the rocks is deafening ...a deep rumble which startles you.
Sheltering ourselves from the storm at km 3071
- Day 258: March 24th: Playa Esteiro to Porto de Bares - 17 km
Hiking on the crest of the peninsula's mountains with a panoramic view ...ocean on both sides
How to ruin a perfect brushing and end up with dreadlocks ...
The inhabitants of Vila de Bares are decorating their stone houses by sculpting faces in the rock.
Time for a little picnic in the sun, the Faro is protecting us from the strong wind.
We reached the northernmost point of Spain...
Casey's always doing his classic little dance while walking downhill...his bad knee only allows a slow descent in zigzags while I'm darting ahead in a straight line.
Casey's past as a soccer player is resurfacing...
Porto de Bares: small fishermen town, charming little beach...cute houses...peaceful little gem.
Our little bar/restaurant today has a quite original setting: it has a soccer field with ocean view right in front of it.
I wonder how many balls got lost at sea...
We arrived quite early at the little bar/restaurant of Porto de Bares and had to wait for 2 hours until la ocho y media to order some food...menu of the evening: stuffed mussels, octopus galician style (bathing in tons of olive oil) and lamb chops with french fries...full belly=happy Casey!
17 km done for a total of 3071 + 17 = 3088 km
- Day 259: March 25th: Porto de Bares to Miradoiro de Punta Cameiro - 17 km
17 km done for a total of 3088 + 17 = 3105 km